``This festival,'' said Warren Mustacchio as he prepared his sausage-and-steak station on North Street, ``is all about tradition. That's what it is.''

The fete runs from this evening (when a charity ``cheese tower'' contest presented by sponsor Sorrento Cheese takes place) until Sunday night, when the traditional ``Flight of the Angel'' provides an inspirational finale.

Many of the men helping to organize the Madonna del Soccorso (Our Lady of Help) feast are members of the Fisherman's Club, a North End institution dating back to 1910, when fishing the waters of Massachusetts Bay - and beyond - provided a living for many North End families.

``The men would go out for a week or more and when they came back, they'd stop by the club to talk about the fishing,'' recalled Gus Graffeo, whose grandfather was a founding member.

Festival manager Sal ``Bosco'' Diecidue added, ``They could take showers there to wash off the fish smell. Their wives and mothers wouldn't let them in the house.''

Diecidue also said all the original families hailed from the Sicilian fishing village of Sciacca, and a number of them still reside in the North End, or return regularly.

One returnee is Steven Ultrino, 26, a teacher at Malden Catholic and this year's festival chairman. ``It's such an honor for me,'' he said. ``I'm the grandchild of fishermen here, and it's nice to continue the tradition.''

Fisherman's Club past president Leonardo Gilardi said, ``This is a special event, this year and every year.''

Habib Bensalah, 19, and Bianca Ferrara, 18, who have been attending the festival since they were kids, said they'll participate again.

Ferrara said in light of recent sexual attacks in the neighborhood, the festival will be the safest place in the city.

``People watch out for you. They always walk you home,'' she said.

Boston police spokesman John Boyle said, ``We have had increased patrols in the North End since May,'' and they will continue.